October28, 2007
BySETH KUGEL
Samaná,the gnarled finger of a peninsula on the northeastcoast of the DominicanRepublic, has always been a beautiful place.Green roller-coaster hills are hometo picturesque farms on the interior, andlazy beach towns dot the shore,drawing Europeans — especially the French —willing to make the lengthy andrugged drive from the country’s major airports.
Witha faster highway now under construction, and a newairport in Samaná, high-endresorts are starting to move in. But there arestill plenty of bargains to befound on the peninsula’s long beaches and in itslush interior, especiallyaround the main resort town, Las Terrenas, wherehotels prefer cash payments inUnited States dollars, and tourists get aroundon all-terrain vehicles ormotorbike-taxis.
Whereto Stay
It’shard to imagine a better bargain than Eva Luna (CalleMarico; 809-978-5611;www.villa-evaluna.com), a French-run hotel in LasTerrenas. The villas, two ofwhich cost $100 a night, are exemplars of the artof rustic luxury, with stylishinteriors painted in toned-down Caribbean colorsso soothing they practicallymassage the eyes. Private terraces and a swimmingpool surrounded by palms are abonus.
Onthe lazier Playa Bonita, an old-timer, the Hotel Atlantis(Beach Road;809-240-6111; www.atlantis-hotel.com.do), offers large roomsstarting at $67during the winter high season. And finally, for those seekingisolation andwilling to pay a bit more for it, Casa Cosón (Playa Cosón;809-374-2993;www.casacoson.com), a gorgeous beachfront house run by a(non-English-speaking)French couple, has four bright and playfully decoratedrooms for 90 euros anight ($130.50 at $1.45 to the euro) as well as a smallhouse for 90 euros thatsleeps four.
Whereto Eat
Withthe way locals rave about La Terrasse (Pueblo de losPescadores, 809-240-6730),a reasonably priced French bistro in Las Terrenas,it’s a miracle otherrestaurants are still in business. Set in a romantic,whitewashed house alongthe surf, it serves fish-centric dishes along with softDominican music andcandlelit coziness. Among the better bargains: grilleddorado for 300 pesos, or$8.75 at 34 pesos to the dollar, and squid à laprovençale for 350. Or splurgeon the pricier specials, like snapper enpapillote for 450 pesos.
Thosewho want a more Dominican — and thus cheaper — mealwill find plenty in downtownLas Terrenas, away from the beach. But should yoube heading out to Playa Cosónor Playa Bonita, there’s a menuless and namelesshole-in-the-wall storefrontright before the road forks to the two beaches ,where a plate ofvinaigrette-coated chicken ***, or other daily specialsserved with rice andbeans, is 100 pesos. It’s marked only by a “Pescado” (“Fish”)sign, ironic sincefish is not a regular menu item. For breakfast in town,Sucré Salé (Plaza Taina,809-860-0863) is an expatriate’s favorite. An espressois 20 pesos, andbaguettes and pain au chocolat are not much more. It may fallshort of Parisboulangerie quality, but Paris doesn’t have Dominican beaches,either.
FreeBeaches
Thebeaches in Las Terrenas are perfectly acceptable, butfar more serene sands liea bumpy (but fun) 100-peso motoconcho ride away atPlaya Cosón , the winner ofthe regional beach beauty pageant. It offers aboutfour miles of nearly emptypalm-lined sands, with just a few small hotels andrestaurants to interrupt themajestic beachfront. (Okay, there’s a Viva Windhamresort, too, but just facethe other way). A close runner-up is the gracefulPlaya Rincón — though, at morethan an hour’s excursion by car, it is a bitremote. Still, getting there is agood way to get to know the peninsula,zigging and zagging over deep green hillsspeckled with cotton-candy-coloredhouses.
Whereto Party
Jointhe gringo-local mix at La Bodega (Casa Linda,809-868-3390), an outdoor clubthat takes over the courtyard at the Casa Lindashopping center in Las Terrenasafter 10 p.m. There’s no cover unless there’slive music. But the chance to seethe country’s top merengue and guitar-playingbachata stars is well worth the300 pesos or so. Calmer places to get a beerdot the nearby beachfront, like thecozy El Mosquito Art Bar (Pueblo de losPescadores, 809-877-8374).
Whatto Do
Thetropical waters of Samaná Bay is a breeding place forthousands of humpbackwhales, who travel from as far away as Norway to mate inthese warmer climesfrom January to March. The area’s chief whale watcher isKim Beddall, a Canadianwho runs Whale Samaná (Santa Bárbara de Samaná,809-538-2494,), which offerstrips twice daily for $59 that last three to fourhours. The 50-foot boat isspecially outfitted for whale watching, withbathrooms, and onboard naturalistsare there to answer questions. Ms. Beddall,too, can answer just about any questionyou throw her way about the humpbacks,from their evolutionary ancestors whoroamed the Earth, to theirsingles-bar-like mating rituals.
Whatto Buy
Themain street in Las Terrenas is loaded with shops, someof them sellingoverpriced junk. A standout exception for local wares isNativ’Arte (CallePrincipal, 270, 809-240-6412), a slightly chaotic store thatcarries everythingDominican-made, from coconut and olive oil soaps in scentslike mint andlimoncillo for a few dollars, to ceramic plates with indigenouspatterns andadorable diaries. It’s a step classier than your regular touristshack. ForHaitian arts and crafts, check out Haitian Caraibes (Calle Principal233,809-240-6250), a gallery that carries cigars, crafts and brightHaitianpaintings by talented artists (as opposed to the schlock sold in thestreets),starting at around $50.
Haveyou been to Samaná or another part of the DominicanRepublic? Share your traveltips.